The cultural centre of European Russia is St Petersburg. The city is a living museum from the unbelievable art in the Hermitage and living cathedrals, to the street performers and teenagers enjoying the sun. Long warm evenings in midsummer entice long walks in boulevards and sunsets from parapets without any sense of threat. Yet the history of Leningrad is just below the surface. From the monuments commemorating the two and half year siege in which over a million inhabitants died, to the original sign suggesting that it would be safer to walk on the other side of the street during bombardments.